Archive for February, 2009

Plaza de Armas

Posted in Peru Trip with tags , , , on February 25, 2009 by Spiralbound

Cathedral at Night

Plaza de Armas

Street Eating & Picanterias

Posted in Peru Trip with tags , , , on February 24, 2009 by Spiralbound

Since we only have a few days until the wedding, Marco suggested we get our inevitable gastrointestinal catastrophes out of the way now so as to not interfere with his matrimonial plans later in the week. We drove to the outskirts of the city where there was an insanely popular street vendor selling pork sandwiches. The little stand was surrounded by rundown taxis, military vehicles, expensive upper-class cars; people from every rung of the economic ladder. I had a sanguche de cabeza de chancho, or pig’s head sandwich. Sanguche apparently is a loanword from English, a kind of phonetic bastardization of the word sandwich. In any event, we ate them in our car as the stools surrounding the cart were all occupied.

The sandwich consisted of large chunks of salty, sour, and  intensely flavorful pork head, stuffed with onions between two pieces of triangular wheat bread. Although I was initially wary of eating pig’s head, it turned out to be one of the best sandwiches I’ve had in a very long time.

Sanguche de cabeza de chancho

In anticipation of the stomach problems that he insists will surely follow,  he has scheduled an excursion to the market later tonight to stock up on antidiarrheal medication and gatorade.

We decided to have a classier yet equally typical Peruvian meal for dinner, so we went to the restaurant La Nueva Palomino, where everything is cooked in large wooden pots. Our appetizer was fried cheese with a spicy sauce that was so good it bordered on being addictive:

Queso Frito con Salsa Picante

For my main plate I had Rocoto Relleno, which is a large chili pepper stuffed with meat, cheese, onions, olives and spices. It is usually served with a side dish of cheese and potatoes, which is equally delicious:

El rocoto relleno

Finally, Marco’s fiancee Carolina had a soup compromised almost entirely of delicious salty Peruvian cheese:

Sopa de Queso

The picture doesn’t begin to accurately convey the size of that soup. Even after giving Marco and I huge chunks of cheese she still couldn’t finish it and had to take the rest home. By the way, the corn in Peru is mutant in origin and ridiculously large.

I would have taken a picture of Marco’s meal but to be honest it was pretty boring and looked like shit. Hopefully next time he’ll show the common courtesy of choosing something more interesting to eat.

Restaurant Entrance:

Front Sign

Upstairs dining area:

Upstairs dining area

The restaurant is located on what I’m told is a typical Arequipa street from the city’s colonial period. The buildings are all made of white volcanic stone called sillar, which is why Arequipa is called the White City.

Restaurant Exterior

What, me pull over?

Posted in Peru Trip with tags , , , on February 23, 2009 by Spiralbound

An interesting note concerning a cultural difference between Peru and the United States. Cars here don’t pull over for ambulances with their sirens on.  Cars here don’t pull over for ANYTHING.

It can wait.

Yes, that’s our car attempting to pass the blue combi and cutting into the passing ambulance’s lane. If you look further back in the photo you’ll see the beginnings of a small fleet of what turned out to be 5 speeding ambulances. Where they’re off to in such a hurry isn’t immediately obvious but this picture was taken shortly after we crossed paths with the truck that was jam-packed with Carnaval performers, so I’ll let you draw your own conclusions.

Al lado pues

Plastic Surgery

Posted in Peru Trip with tags , , , on February 22, 2009 by Spiralbound

This place looks legit!

Usually I’m somewhat apprehensive regarding invasive surgical procedures, especially those of the non-essential vanity-inspired variety, but damn it I just have a good feeling about this place.

Carnaval

Posted in Peru Trip with tags , , on February 22, 2009 by Spiralbound

Completely by coincidence my arrival today coincides with the Carnaval celebration here in Peru. This is supposed to be a time for dancing and other traditional festivities, but somewhere down the line the nation’s youth began interpreting things a little bit differently.

As a result the entire city is a war zone and all law-abiding citizens (all 2 of us) are embroiled in a desperate and ultimately fruitless struggle to remain dry. Gangs of youth are patrolling the streets on foot, bicycles and in cars and trucks soaking any hapless individual that stumbles across their path. As a result even though the afternoon was hot and the air-conditioning in my friend Marco’s car is broken, we are driving with the windows up and the doors locked, as I have it under good authority that they will actually fling your door open to employ whatever means necessary to get you wet.

Walking on foot is completely out of the question today. Driving through the city it quickly became obvious as we saw a scrubby street-urchin completely disappear under a tidal wave of water deftly adminstered by a bucket brigade of kids manning the battlements of a flat-roofed two-story home.  I also observed a 12-year old on a bike try to use a squirt gun on a vendor in a garage converted into a drug store, at which point the vendor then reached into a hidden bucket and smashed a water balloon right across his chest.

Unfortunately I am not quick enough with the camera to catch any of this from a speeding car, but I did get a picture of the heavy police presence that has been scrambled to put the kibosh on the water-fueled chaos.

arequipa-0391

I also thought this was pretty funny, in the same way that anything that could potentially result in festivally-garbed mangled bodies strewn across a busy intersection is amusing to me:

Disaster Imminent

All is not lost, however. If you look up you’ll notice their fortuitous proximity to the Arequipia Medical Center, which will undoubtedly come in handy during the corpse-recovery process when a speeding Combi t-bones the truck and sends the sardine-packed Carnaval celebrants spinning off into oblivion.

Arequipa, 5am

Posted in Peru Trip with tags , , , on February 22, 2009 by Spiralbound

Madrugada ArequipenaAeropuerto

El Misti

Posted in Peru Trip with tags , , on February 22, 2009 by Spiralbound

In refreshing contrast to the disembarkment techniques employed in the US, here in South America you step off the plane right onto the tarmac, just like in the good old days of American aviation. After descending a staircase of course.

Crossing the runway to get to my baggage gave me the opportunity to say hello to an old friend:

arequipa-0181

El Misti is so large it can be seen from practically any point in Arequipa and as a result it is one of the city’s most defining characteristics.  The volcano has been dormant for the last 300 years and luckily this particular morning still found him out like a light. I was surprised to find the peak capped with snow, which is a seasonal occurrence that I was fortunate enough to arrive in time to see.

The Usual Suspects

Posted in Peru Trip with tags , , on February 22, 2009 by Spiralbound

The LAN Airlines in-flight movie descriptions are masterful examples of impressionistic prose, which manage to evoke the spirit of English without actually utilizing the language itself. This is from the summary of The Usual Suspects:

A boat flew up and 27 dead people, founding out a drug traffic operation. The only survival will tell the story that starts with five criminals.

How could I not be immediately compelled to watch the movie after that tour-de-force of a pitch?

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